Years Kitsa - Cafe, Daegu, South Korea

It seems that the *Kissaten* is suddenly in vogue. The struggle to survive the third wave of coffee culture appears to have reached beyond Australia to pull Japan into the fold. Since we have only just begun to import the *Kissaten* culture of the Taisho era, it is perhaps inevitable that terms are conflated—redundancies like "Kissaten Café"—and implementations often fall short.

With expectations tempered, I visited Years Kitsa, only to find they have implemented everything from the Zen-style interior to the essential elements of a Kissaten remarkably well. Here is an exploration of what a Kissaten truly is, what this space achieved, and where it left a lingering sense of want.

Years Kitsa, newly opened in Samdeok-dong by the team behind Years in Gyo-dong, uses the Japanese Kissaten as its motif, unfolding an atmosphere entirely distinct from their previous location.

One can glimpse the effort to capture Japanese culture starting from the facade. Long, thin rectangles spread horizontally, unified by identical wooden frames. It is a quintessential Zen-style interior.

One of the defining features of a Kissaten is the 'Master.' It is a space belonging to a person who possesses not only excellent coffee but a firm, distinct style, translating that taste into physical reality. From the stingray-shaped sculpture hanging from the ceiling to the mysterious, large egg-like object and various props, the Master's touch is evident. Even the tableware, distinct in shape yet cohesive in mood, reveals a clear and curated taste.

There are plenty of seats, and the height of the chairs and tables is appropriate. As a Kissaten is a place designed for lingering, making the seating uncomfortable would be merely scratching the surface of the concept. However, I do wish the spacing between seats were slightly wider; the proximity to neighbors can be somewhat distracting. The interior lighting is also quite dim, appearing difficult for reading.

The shared table right in front of the entrance is the core of the space. Historically, a Kissaten was a venue for writers and intellectuals to enjoy coffee and conversation; without this communal element, the concept is incomplete.

On a day I visited alone, I sat here reading. Perhaps because the culture of shared tables is still unfamiliar, people would hesitate and mostly leave to find other spots. While tastes differ and must be respected, I believe that if one avoids or dreads this seat, they cannot truly enjoy the essence of a Kissaten.

Fondant au Chocolat (7,500)

I ate it thinking it would be a brownie type, but it possesses the heavy taste of dark chocolate with a moist, rich texture.

Years Latte (5,500)

"Dense" is the word that fits perfectly. It has a texture that is smooth yet clings stickily to the tongue. For my palate, it was a touch too sweet.